We are now back in Saudi. Over the last few days we did so much that I was too tired to blog once the kids had gone to bed. I did continue to write though, and I will post the entries in the next day or two. Looking back over the last few entries, it is obvious that the keys on a Chinese keyboard don't translate so well when posted on Blogger. I'll go through and do some proof reading when I get a chance.
I am in the process of editing photographs and sound clips too ... so watch this space.
Anyway, here is the entry from April 2nd, our first day in Yangshuo.
2 April 2007
We began the day at the Lizard Lounge, China Climb’s headquarters. It is a great venue just to hang out in. There is a bouldering wall, places to lie around or sit chatting, a cosy balcony where you can hide out and relax. Drinks are free from the fridge and there is a huge collection of music on the lounge’s computer. The guides hang out there too and chat with the kids, answering their many questions, joking and sharing anecdotes.
In the morning we were to hold a Rogaine, a word and activity I hadn’t come across before. As we left the Lizard Lounge it was still raining slightly. Tyson, a long haired guide with a mischievous grin, long hair and a rugged look about him, led us on a short walking tour of Yangshuo. There had been a lot of development since my last visit back in 2001. We finished at the end of Western Street, well known amongst travelers in China for its good shopping, bars, restaurants and coffee shops. Tyson lined the students up just opposite KFC – much to their excitement – before explaining that they were not allowed to eat KFC whilst they were in Yangshuo. When the groaning and moaning subsided, he handed out sheets containing a series of questions about China and Yangshuo. Working in groups, the kids had to search for the answers by looking around town and talking to local people. It was an excellent activity. By the time we all met up for lunch, the kids were buzzing with excitement and enthusiasm.
While Group Two went caving with Beverly and Gill, our group headed out to Low Hill for rock climbing. We had been scheduled to climb at a crag called Baby Frog, but as had rained heavily in the night we needed to change to a more overhanging location. For most of the students this would be their first taste of real rock climbing and the mention of the word overhanging led to a general nervousness that was palpable.
Three minibuses took us along the narrow village roads to Low Hill. Just a little way out of Yangshuo and all Western development and signs of modernity had vanished. The dirt roads wound between rice fields and tiny farmers’ houses, past slowly lumbering water buffalo and pigs searching for food. As we parked an old woman carrying postcards appeared from nowhere and tried to cash in on our visit.
Low Hill is massive, a towering limestone karst that rises perhaps 500 feet from the rice fields. It overhangs considerably, which although rather intimidating, does mean that it remains dry. Four of the guides were already there, having gone ahead to set up the belay ropes. There were four routes for us to try graded from 5.8 to 5.10b, using the American grading system. Xiao Sai gave a brief talk about climbing safety and made sure that everybody was fitted with harnesses and helmets. He suggested that we begin with the easier routes before trying the 5.10b.
Chris, flushed with the enthusiasm and confidence of an 18 year old boy, ignored Xiao Sai’s advice and quickly launched himself on the hardest route. He climbed well until he reached the crux at about 15m, a strenuous move involving a layback crack around a bulge. There the crag spat him out … repeatedly. When, after a good many attempts and a considerable amount of tension applied to the rope by his belayer, he did conquer the crux, he proudly and loudly told us that he had made it after he had “rested for a second”.
The other students found the climbing hard too. If you have learned to climb on an indoor (or outdoor, in our case) climbing wall, your first visit to real rock can come as a surprise. You might have learned good techniques and developed your finger and upper body strength, but the absence of colour coded holds is quite bewildering. On a climbing wall you do the same routes time and time again, developing muscle memory and honing your technique. On a crag you must do everything ‘on sight’, at least at first, and so it takes a little time to transfer your skills to real rock climbing.
Twenty two metres above the belay ledge and at the top of one of the routes there was a small hole in the limestone. By crawling through a narrow cave passage further along the crag, I was able to access this and take photographs of the kids as they climbed.
Whilst they were waiting their turn on the ropes, Diane and one of the guides took a group of kids though a cave system from one side of the mountain to the other. When the students reappeared, they were somewhat grubby but very happy.
By the end of the day all the students were climbing well, and although not all had made a route successfully, everybody was pleased with their attempts. Matthew and Jelle did particularly well. Tired and generally feeling very pleased with ourselves we headed back along the narrow bunds between the rice fields to the waiting minibuses.
Group 2 was already at the Lizard Lounge when we got back to town. They were grinning hugely and the chaperone’s eyes were gleaming with enthusiasm. “Brilliant” is all that they would say about their day, for they had been sworn to secrecy by their guide Tyson.
